What they are, where they originated, and how to use them with awareness.
Non-comedogenic. Medical-grade. Cosmeceutical. Clean. Acne-safe. Oil-free. Natural.
You have probably said or used at least one of these words today.
So have I.
Someone mentioned them to you probably in training per perhaps a rep who said it with such authority that it sounded elevated, more accurate than what you had been saying before, and so they entered your vocabulary. They sound credible, and so do you when you use them.
Do you know where they originate? And more importantly: Is it approved verbiage, especially if they are making claims?
This isn't a name and shame blog. This is about understanding and awareness when using them. So, where do they come from? Initially, most grew from science and concern. Unfortunately the industry, *cough cough* marketing, created shorthand and they stuck.
Non-comedogenic and Non-acnegenic
Up first, let's discuss what I would argue is one of the most misused. Non-comedogenic. They originated in dermatology. In 1972, Dr. Albert Kligman and James Mills introduced the term acne cosmetica to describe post-adolescent acne linked to cosmetic use. Certain ingredients were being shown to block pores and trigger breakouts. With that in mind, the industry responded with non-comedogenic, which meant that the product was supposedly less likely to cause comedones and blockages. Non-acnegenic followed, used interchangeably, for the same purpose.
Sounds great, so what's the problem? The FDA does NOT regulate this term, since there is no standardized test, which means, how do you know their claim is true? Often, it is mentioned because some of the individual ingredients are non-comedogenic. The word signals INTENT, not a regulated outcome. Those are two very different things.
Cosmeceutical
As you know, this is a hybrid word combining the word cosmetic with pharmaceutical. Coined by Dr Albert Kligman in 1984. It suggests the product can deliver benefits beyond basic cosmetics, approaching more drug-like efficacy, which sounds beneficial.
Problem? Again, the FDA says there is no legal meaning. Here in the US there is no in-between category where this fits. The word cosmeceutical is probably one of the most popular in our industry right now. Know that what you are hinting at is that the product is formulated to perform beyond basic cosmetic function.
Medical-grade, Pharmaceutical-grade, and Clinical-grade
Now, a newer one that has taken our industry by storm is medical-grade along with pharmaceutical-grade and clinical-grade. These emerged with the increase in medspas because it does sound more clinical and definitely more authoritative than good ole cosmetic. It implies higher standards (especially for formulations), along with potentially stricter testing, and higher percentages of specific ingredients versus mass market.
There is no regulatory definition and no FDA category called medical-grade. This verbiage really signals more POSITIONING than legal status.
Clean and Natural
The bane of my existence. I love it when people say it needs to have very few ingredients or it is not considered a clean product. I use a product that probably has 30 naturally-derived ingredients. Does that make it bad and not clean? How about 'if you can't pronounce it then it's a chemical' and therefore bad. Well, 'Butyrospermum Parkii' is one of the most nourishing, skin-loving ingredients in skincare. You probably know it as shea butter. Completely unpronounceable. And 'Buddleja Davidii' (butterfly bush) is another. Both are naturally derived ingredients that would fail the pronunciation test for most people. Neither remotely harmful. Are they toxic because I can't pronounce them? The rule falls apart immediately.
Here's another thought, we can create biomimetic ingredients that replicate natural biological structures found in the skin (like peptides, ceramides, growth factors and hyaluronic acid). Other biomimetic ingredients include antioxidants and even Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10 for short). Since these are made in a lab, they are not naturally-derived.
These terms came due to consumer demand for transparency and ingredient awareness, which I applaud, but none of these terms are regulated and don't have specific descriptions so we can make it up as we go along. Each brand can decide if they are clean or natural.
Oil-free
This one gets people every single time. The word oil is connected to sebum and oil-free signals that it is not going to clog. Except, some oils (also known as lipids), are not pore-clogging at all and are actually needed for barrier repair.
So Why Do We Use This Terminology?
To be honest, they work. They are descriptive, efficient, and elevated. They can communicate positioning quickly. But ultimately, they respond to consumer psychology. The words such as medical-grade activate trust. Clean and natural activate safety. Non-comedogenic or oil-free activates relief for those of us prone to breakouts. The language does emotional work, and boy is it effective.
The issue isn't that we use them. The issue is that when we use them they invoke a claim that we may or may not be able to make or prove. That is not education, that is information which has been passed down unexamined.
Ok Z, So What Do I Say Instead?
Very good question and thanks for asking. It is not that you need to stop immediately, just use them with awareness.
For example, when we say non-comedogenic, know that it signals formulation intent. Be ready to explain to someone, that you told, that the product is non-comedogenic, especially if they break out from the product. Know why that is, and that it isn't because the product is clogging pores. People take that seriously and it may result in trust lost.
When you mention medical-grade, know that you are communicating professional positioning. What makes it medical-grade? Is it ingredients? Concentration? Formulation?
Even the word cosmeceutical, know that what you are hinting at is that the product is formulated to perform beyond basic cosmetic function. Be aware of making structure and function claims since that falls under drugs. Just sayin ;)
How about the word clean? What is the definition for you? For this brand, in this context, clean means what exactly? Does it mean fragrance free? Free of specific ingredients? Fewer ingredients? So if you say clean, be as specific as possible. This will increase credibility and understanding of what that definition means to you and your brand or practice.
If you can become aware and define the words so they explain your version, that makes you trustworthy and credible. And that makes all the difference.
Here are some suggestions I have used: I love words such as higher performance, thoughtfully curated, clinically minded (especially if they have clinical studies backing them).
In Conclusion
Knowing what you are saying, why you are saying it, and what it can and cannot promise (or claim) is the foundation of every credible use of words and recommendations you make. These can be very beneficial words for you, absolutely. But use them knowing exactly what they are and what they are not.
That's The Education Effect™.